ACROSS THE NULLARBOR BAITING CANE TOAD - A Most Intoxicating Journey

Day 29

Saturday 26 May 2018

Cliff Head to Northampton

Up betimes having endured another, less inclement night although a generous dinner of bacon and baked beans the night before did nothing to ease the turbulence in and around the Cane Toad!

We were the last of five free campers to depart Cliff Head but the Cane Toad's A-Frame seems to be holding up.

Made our way to Dongara (say Dong-a-ruh) and stumbled on what may be the best equipped Dump-Ezy this side of Port Augusta.  This splendid appliance not only features a snug-fitting and easily lifted lid and fully adjustable water hose, it also has a dedicated hand-basin, night light and a roof.  It is also enclosed on three sides making it both private and weatherproof!  This "Dongara DeLuxe Dump-Ezy" sets the standard to which all municipal dump points should now aspire. 4 1/2 Stars.

THE DONGARA DELUXE DUMP-EZY - SETTING THE STANDARD

But Dongara is not just a leader in the chemical toilet hygiene stakes, it also boasts "the Big Lobster" or, as the Prop prefers to call it,  "the Crayfish in a Boat" a startling piece of post-modernist abstract sculpture/installation.

However, being as fair as one possibly can, the lobster component - although considerably larger than life-size - is not especially "big".  And the "boat" component is no larger than a sabot dinghy.  All in all, "the Big Lobster" of Dongara pales by comparison with "The Big Crayfish" at Kingston S.E. in South Australia.

"THE BIG CRAYFISH" AT DONGARA - NOT VERY BIG AT  ALL!

THE BIG LOBSTER AT KINGSTON SE (SA) - SETTING THE STANDARD FOR "BIG" CRUSTECEANS

In the Prop's humble opinion, the burghers of Dongara would be better off spruiking the considerable attractions of their magnificent DeLuxe Dump-Ezy rather than wasting any more precious PR dollars on the (purported) "Big Crayfish".

Left Dongara with mixed feelings but an empty chemical toilet and headed for Geraldton.

Parked in the newly-provided caravan parking/camping area in the centre of town and, knowing no better, we decided to take the self-guided "West End Walk" which turned out to be immensely uninteresting but mercifully short.

I suppose that if you have an interest in grain silo construction or fish markets, you may find one or two sites which grab your attention.  In saying this, the Prop does not overlook the newly-reconstructed grandstand at the Geraldton Oval (home of the Mighty Blues - the Geraldton Railway Football Club) named in memory of Colin "Scruffy" Burgess.

On the other hand, it too could be easily overlooked without regret.

THE COLIN BURGESS "SCRUFFY" GRANDSTAND.  BUILT OF STEEL AND CONCRETE BUT MADE TO LOOK LIKE THE TIMBER ORIGINAL

THE RON MORGAN PAVILION

SPIRITUAL HOME OF "THE MIGHTY BLUES" - THE GERALDTON RAILWAY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL CLUB

Left Geraldton heading nowhere in particular and eventually stopped just north of Northampton at "Northbrook Home Stay" - a form of caravan park in a paddock on a farm, the second most notable feature of which is its complete lack of any level ground.  Not for the fist time, the Prop spent the night wondering whether the Cane Toad might not fall off the edge of the planet (See Day 12).

The most notable feature of Northbrook Home Stay was that it appears to be the current home of Dr Who and that Dr Who can't spell "Tardis".

Alternatively, the occupant of the "Tardus" is an imposter.

Alternatively "Tardus" is some sort of pun that continues to be far too cryptic for the Prop to decode.

               

 

Day 30

Sunday 27 May 2018

Northampton to Kalbarri

Up betimes and got away before Dr Who (Who had in fact left in his Land Rover leaving his "Tardus" and trailer behind.  It seems that he may be residing at Northbrook Home Stay.  If that is correct then the Prop thinks that this was a technical win at the very least since we left before he had "completely"left).

Made a last minute decision to make a detour to Kalbarri and were very glad we did. There is simply no comparison to be made between the delights of the Kalbarri National Park and Geraldton's West End Walk (See Day 29)

NATURE'S WINDOW, KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK  

AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE OF A BIG ROCK WITH A HOLE IN IT.

THE HAWK'S HEAD, KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK

AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE OF A ROCK WITHOUT A HOLE IN IT.

KALBARRI GORGE, KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK

AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE OF A ROCK WITH A RIVER RUNNING THROUGH IT.

The A- Frame on the Cane Toad is holding up pretty well.

Day 31
Monday 28 May 2018
Kalbarri to Denham

Up betimes and headed in the direction of Monkey Mia.

Having discovered that the only caravan park at Monkey Mia is closed for redevelopment we navigated to Denham (about 25 klms from Monkey Mia) and arrived at the "Blue Dolphin Caravan Park."

Had a ceremonial beer at the most westerly pub in Australia.

SHARK BAY HOTEL 

NO MORE BEER UNTIL MADAGASGAR FOR THOSE HEADING WEST!

Day 32Tuesday 29 May 2018Denham to Monkey Mia to Denham

Up betimes to travel 25 kilometres to Monkey Mia hopeful of being able to participate in one of the two or three "dolphin interactions"which usually take place each day. (The A-Frame on the Cane Toad is still making funny noises bu is otherwise OK.)

Controversy rages about how Monkey Mia got its name. See here. 

On arrival the Prop was not surprised to find that, just like nearly everybody else, dolphins get up and going much earlier than the Prop does.  It was barely 9.30 and a big board announced that already two "interactions" had occurred today.  However, all was not lost.  Based on events of previous days it appeared that if there was to be a third interaction today then it would happen by 11.00 am at the latest.

Then, at 9.55 am, just as the Prop and Mrs P sat down to a nice freshly-made cappuccino coffee, dolphins began appearing in the water about 15 metres away.  First one, then two more then three until there were at least six or seven interactive dolphins who swam around aimlessly but close by for about 20 minutes while a human-dolphin interactor told the assembled crowd of about 60 onlookers how to interact with dolphins properly. No approaching, swimming with, feeding or even touching the dolphins - not even with a fully informed consent (#MeToo\Dolphins).

TWO DOLPHINS AND A SKILLED DOLPHIN INTERACTOR AT MONKEY MIA

A VERY ATTRACTIVE FEMALE DOLPHIN SEEKING TO INTERACT WITH THE PROP!  LOOK BUT DO NOT TOUCH!

At the end of the interaction lecture each of the dolphins lined up in the water next to a volunteer who was holding a bucket with that particular dolphin's name on it (Can they read?) and selected visitors were invited to interact with them by hand feeding them a small fish.  Two or three fish later, all the dolphins were gone - just as quickly as they had appeared.

So that's what a dolphin interaction is!

Meanwhile, the pelicans, who were obviously crying out for a bit of interaction -  were largely ignored!

    PELICANS, DESPERATE FOR MORE INTERACTION AT MONKEY MIA

ACROSS THE NULLARBOR BITING CANE TOADS - "A Most Distasteful Journey"

Day 18

Tuesday 15 May 2018

Lucky Bay to Jerramungup

Up betimes and on our way from Lucky Bay back westwards through Esperance making yet another stop at the magnificent Esperance dump point; - a standard "Dump-Ezy" appliance complete with a well-maintained hinged lid and cleaning hose with adjustable flow.  A real delight to use.  In some ways, the Prop wishes he had had more bowel movements in the immediately preceding days to do this facility justice! - 4 stars!

THE ESPERANCE "DUMP-EZY" - OR ONE VERY MUCH LIKE IT.

Then on to the Munglinup Roadhouse for a very nourishing lunch which, in the case of the Prop, consisted of a "chicken and broccoli ball" and a chicken dim sim both of which came from an impressively sparkling bain-marie.

Who knew broccoli was a fast food?

THE MUNGLINUP ROADHOUSE - AN OUTSTANDING BAIN-MARIE

Refreshed (and not a little bloated) the Prop aimed the Cane Toad towards the clean, friendly and peaceful Jerramunjup Caravan Park at which an uneventful - one might even say "clean, friendly and peaceful" night was passed.

JERRAMUNGUP CARAVAN PARK - THE SIGN SAYS IT ALL

Nearly perfick!

Day 19
Wednesday 16 May 2018
Jerramungup to Peaceful Bay

Up betimes and sallied forth to the historic whaling town of Albany.

Had a quick look about but were unable to find any whales at all - let alone any historic ones.  Turns out quite a lot of whales were killed here earlier last century.  Indeed, as a young lass, Mrs P visited Albany in the early 1970's at which time the whaling killing industry was still in operation - you could tell by the smell apparently!

The Prop was surprised to find the brig "Amity" in "dry dock" near the foreshore but the redoubtable Rear-Admiral Kimber was nowhere to be found. We were told he had taken a party of soi disant "medical professionals" on a cuckoo spotting day cruise on the MV Kenkesey.

THE BRIG "AMITY" IN DRY DOCK AT ALBANY

Nearby to the Amity the Prop found a memorial to a Captain G. Vancouver.  Never heard of him!

THE G. VANCOUVER MEMORIAL.  WHAT DID HE EVER DO?

The Prop also paid a courtesy visit to the offices of Albany's biggest mega law firm, Liz Hamilton T&L Lawyers at their new offices but was not well-received - so we left before the bill exceeded $500.

THE NEW OFFICES OF LIZ HAMILTON T&L LAWYERS, "WC CHAMBERS"

Left Albany in the Cane Toad (as well as in high dudgeon) and headed to Denmark.  Not the one in Europe but the one in Western Australia that is famous for being the home of the Bert Bolle barometer - the world's BIGGEST barometer.

For the Prop, this was going to be the the undoubted highlight of the week.

Not the Big Galah, not the Big Windmill, not even the Big Wombat can compare with the Big Barometer!  The sheer audacity of Bert Bolle to conceive of - let alone to construct - the world's largest barometer!  And no mere aneroid barometer.  This thing is the real deal - a 40 foot high water column barometer.  Talk about atmosphere!  Talk about pressure!!

Learn more here

THE BERT BOLLE BIG BAROMETER - WHAT A WHOPPER!

Unfortunately, the Big Barometer was so difficult and expensive to maintain it was removed from the Denmark Visitor Information Centre in 2011.

THE DENMARK VISITOR CENTRE

FORMER HOME OF THE BERT BOLLE BIG BAROMETER

Consequently, there is now no reason to stop in Denmark.

Bastards!



Dejected, and now in even higher dudgeon, we made our doleful way to Peaceful Bay.

A less than perfick day!   

Day 20

Thursday 17 May 2018

Peaceful Bay

Another lay-day!

Say no more!

THE CANE TOAD - AT PEACE

A peaceful day at Peaceful Bay.

PEACEFUL BAY, PEACEFUL BAY

Perfick!

Day 21

Friday 18 May 2018

Peaceful Bay to Greenbushes

Up betimes having spotted a very highly rated free camping site at a little place called Greenbushes.
(Not able to ascertain how the town got its name - curious!)

Turned out to be a sort of car park next to the local soccer ground at which young kiddies and their bleary-eyed parents began to arrive at about 7.45 am ready for a 9.00 am kick-off.

The Prop has never before woken up from a good night's sleep only to find that he is part of a crowd at a soccer game.  Unusual but not highly-rated.

Somewhat less than perfick!

Still, it WAS free.

Day 22

Saturday 19 May 2018

Greenbushes to Yunderup

Up betimes and headed for Walpole.  Not the one just north of Dover in Tasmania that no-one has ever heard of but this one.

Infiltrated the local IGA to negotiate the vending of some fromaginous and non-formaginous comsestibles and were treated to an impropmptu bouzouki recital by a travelling troupe of Greek cheesemongers. As a result we quickly curtailed our Walpoling activities and headed for the delightfully-named Yunderup

Intending to patronise "Tathams Caravan Park", as a result of a navigational infelicity, the Cane Toad entered the adjacent, and deceptively similar, "Murray River Caravan Park".

What stroke of luck!  Had we gone where we intended we should have ended up somewhere up the back in among "the permanents".  As it was, we were directed to a site with an absolute river frontage complete with water fowl, dolphins and all-day sun.

THE YUNDERUP DOLPHINS SHOWING OFF FOR THE VISITORS...

AS WATER FOWL WATCH ON WITH INTEREST

YUNDER UP, SUN DOWN

Perfick!

 

Day 23

Sunday 20 May 2018

Yunderup

Yet another lay-day!

THE CANE TOAD TAKES IT EASY

Still perfick!

Day 24

Monday 21 May 2018

Yunderup to Wembley Downs (Perth)

Up betimes and straight to the rather disappointing Mandurah dump point!

Like the Esperance dump point, this too is a "Dump-Ezy" appliance but the lid is difficult to operate and there is NO water hose at all so "spillage" can be a real problem - 2 stars.

On to Wembley Downs to a small private facility operated by friends who were, surprisingly, pleased to see us...or said they were!

Perfick!

Day 25

Tuesday 22 May 2018

Wembley Downs

Up betimes to take the Cane Toad for a much-needed fixed-price service complete with attempted "$450 up-sell" ("Your A-frame might be busted - best put in a new one to be safe")  The Prop skillfully resisted these false entreaties - but now worries that the Cane Toad's A-frame may indeed be busted!

Then to Ratsnest Island for the day.  Very pleasant indeed.

SEAL WATCHING ON ROTTNEST ISLAND  

THE PROP HAS NEVER FELT SO SELF-CONSCIOUS!

Then "home" for a hand made pasta dinner made by the park's resident chef, Monsieur Bibendum.

Perfick! 

 

Day 26

Wednesday 23 May 2018

Wembley Downs

Up betimes to go and collect the cane Toad.  The little men at Auto Bahn had even washed and polished the Cane Toad - but it was making a funny noise.  Could it be the A-frame?

Went on a longish stroll to Scarborough Beach to inspect the $150 million redevelopment of the foreshore.  The Prop can only guess but reckons about $148 million was spent on building a BIG car park [Why didn't they call it "The Big Car Park"?] and about $2 million building a swimming pool next to the beach.  Apparently there is nowhere else to have a swim because the car park is so big!

THE SCARBOROUGH BEACH SWIMMING POOL - $2M AND NO ARTIFICIAL BEACH!

Paid a visit to Mrs P's aged aunt and enjoyed a variety of baked goods including giant lamingtons.

A RELATIVELY SMALL LAMINGTON - BUT YOU GET THE IDEA

Home for dinner - lamb curry, dahl, bad puns, rice and strawberry sponge cake which, with the exception of the bad puns, were all made by the aforesaid Monsieur Bibendum.

Even more perfick!

Day 27

Thursday 24 May 2018

Wembley Downs to Cervantes

Up betimes to head north and out of the metropolis of Perth.

The weather forecast was not promising.  After 10 days of mid 20's and clear blue skies, warnings were being issued for torrential rains and "destructive winds".  Winter is coming the locals kept telling us!

And so it was.

DESTRUCTIVE WINDS AFOOT!

Slow going into a stiff headwind obliged the Prop to feed extra flies to the Cane Toad to keep him going.  As for the A-frame - so far so good.

Arrived in Cervantes in the early afternoon.  No Don Quixote and no windmills as such although there is a sizable "wind farm" about 100 klms south of Cervantes, so you never know!

As the Prop writes, the cane Toad is being buffetted by boisterous winds, occasional heavy rain and the alarming sound of gum nuts falling on the roof - or is it the Cane Toad's A-frame cracking?

The Prop is a little concerned that the Cervantes Caravan park is at sea level and 8 metre waves have been predicted!

THE SEARCH FOR A CYCLIST MISSING IN THE BAD WEATHER CONTINUES.  WHERE CAN HE /SHE BE?

If this turns out to be the last despatch, the reader will know why! (Alternatively it could be because, once again, this blog gets so far behind that the Prop gives up.)

Day 28

Friday 25 May 2018

Cervantes to Cliff Head

Up betimes to find that we had survived a very boisterous night - weather wise (Are you with me?)

Got under way from the [Miguel] Cervantes Caravan Park before at least one other traveller.

However, the Prop was obliged to stop to take a photograph of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza and while he was doing so that other traveller whizzed past and reached the Cervantes town boundary before the Cane Toad.

A defeat perhaps but only a very technical one!

DON QUIXOTE, SANCHO PANZA AND A VESSEL - WHAT CAN IT MEAN?

Reached a very attractive free campground at Cliff Head (not his real name) by 12.30 pm after fighting more headwinds all morning.  Still windy with occasional showers but an ideal opportunity to get this Blog up to date.

ACROSS THE NULLARBOR BEING KANE-TOED - "A Most Uncomfortable Journey"

Day 12
Wednesday 9 May 2018

Nullarbor Roadhouse to Cliff Camp 2

Up betimes only to find that we were the last customers of the Nullarbor Roadhouse to depart.

Not sure what this early rising thing is all about with these superannuated travellers.  It can't be that they they are racing each other to the next caravan park for fear of missing out on a spot - it's not that busy. 

Maybe they drive vast distances each day and like to make an early start? 

Maybe they are incontinent and wake up early whether they like it or not?

The Prop and Mrs P are not fond of driving vast distances and, being only moderately incontinent, like to sleep in until at least sunrise.  So, we do!

The "Big" Whale and the Cane Toad at the Nullarbor Roadhouse.  In fact the Big Whale is a bit of a tiddler being somewhat less than life-size.  Epic Whale Fail!

Mrs P identified a spectacular free camping site right on the edge of the continent atop 90 metre cliffs about 250 kilometres west of the Nullarbor Roadhouse. So that's where we went.

Seduced by the splendid panorama, the Prop established camp by locating the Cane Toad about 15 metres from the cliff face which, in broad daylight, seemed to be a safe and respectable distance which also permitted us to fully appreciate the outstanding vistas.

The great Australian Bight...munch, munch, munch!

The Cane Toad - at the Edge of Reality

However, in the dead of night as a strong north-westerly came in bearing heavy rains, the Prop's mind turned to geology, the probability of landslip, the coefficient of friction of rubber on gravel and the likelihood of our surviving a 90 metre fall into the chilly waters of the Great Australian Bight. 

The leading case of Muirhead v Kingborough Council also came to mind as the Prop slept fitfully on. 

Not since the infamous "Galata Tower Incident" (see "Hobart to Chios" 21 July 2015) has the Prop been filled with such intimations of mortality!

Day 13 
Thursday 10 May 2018

Cliff Camp 2 to Caiguna Roadhouse

Up betimes!

The dawn had arrived and the Prop was delighted to find that Mrs P, the Cane Toad, the cliffs and the Great Australian Bight were all more or less where they had been on the preceding evening.

Once again, the two or three other happy campers (who had all set up camp not less than 50 metres from the cliff face) departed before we did.  Maybe we should get an alarm clock?  Maybe the Prop should just stop worrying about being the last to leave?

A rainstorm rapidly approaching from the south-west galvanised the Prop into action and we once again headed west just as the maelstrom arrived.

The Gathering Storm     

We reached the Western Australian Border at about mid morning or noon - depending on which time zone you think you are in. Turns out that there is a little-known local time zone for the first 250 kilometres after the border which is 45 minutes behind South Australia (Central Standard Time) and 45 minutes ahead of the rest of Western Australia.

We were again required to jettison all fruit, vegetables and honey. Honey? What's that all about. The Prop has always thought that honey was good for you - not some kind of viscous disease-carrying emulsion as the Western Australian quarantine authorities would have us believe.  

The Prop is convinced it is some sort of scam.

Passed through Madura, the main attraction of which seems to be its one hole golf course and Roadhouse complete with Tasmanian "National Pies" and a thoroughly disgruntled proprietor whose second marriage seems to be no better than his first if his conversation while making us two cappuccinos is to be believed.

A couple of Associate Members about to tee off at the first (and only) at Royal Madura   

Just up the road from the golf course is a splendid lookout from which one might have viewed the "sunlit plains extended" had it been at all sunny.  Vast and dotted with funny little tree/shrubs it looks rather like the Serengeti - but without the elephants.

Not the Serengeti but room for a nine-hole course at least! 

Arrived at the Caiguna Roadhouse in the early afternoon - thinking it was 90 minutes later than the locals thought it was.

First to arrive and (as we shall see) again the last to leave!

The Caiguna Roadhouse Caravan Park.  Why would you want to leave early?

Day 14
Friday 11 May 2018
Caiguna Roadhouse to Harms Lake Camp

Up betimes but last to leave again!

Why others had deserted this veritable oasis in the Nullarbor is a mystery.

Frankly, the Prop is beginning to favour the incontinence theory. How else can it be that some people are up have had breakfast (one assumes - most unsafe to operate machinery on an empty stomach) and are on their way at 6.00 am?

Said farewell to Caiguna Roadhouse where, the Prop had enjoyed a surprisingly good “Fisherman’s Basket” and a glass of near-freezing sauv blanc the night before. Caiguna is not exactly a seaside fishing village, so the sight of seafood on the menu was too much to resist. The Prop thought that it would be a lot worse (and therefore, amusing) than it was.  As for the near-freezing wine, they serve all beverages here at the same temperature at which they serve their beer - ice cold.  This means that you can’t actually taste what you are drinking. On reflection, probably a good thing.

Headed "straight" for Harms Lake Camp.

The 90 Mile Straight - just about drove us round the bend!

The Nullarbor is a plain of contradictions! Seafood served at an outback roadhouse but no lake at a place called “Harms Lake”. In fact, not even any water of any kind. This, in stark contrast with Hobart which, as the Prop’s satellite dish revealed, was swamped with over 100 mm of rain overnight.

Harms Lake Campground - dry as a bone

Still, it was a very nice “free” camping spot with lots of room well away from the highway (and the sound of passing road trains in the night)  

Also, surprisingly little used toilet paper lying about.  A pleasant change!     

Day 15
Saturday 12 May 2018
Harms Lake Camp to Salmon Gums

Up betimes and the last of five overnight campers to leave.

Drove about 150 klms to Norseman at which place one can either turn south and head towards Esperance on the coast or turn north and head inland to Kalgoorlie.  Decisions , decisions.

The Cane Toad on autopilot - stopped outside the Norseman Hotel

Someone once said that when you come to a fork in the road, you should take it.  

So, we did!  And ended up in a little town with a name that implies a serious oral health problem; “Salmon Gums” (e.g., “No wonder he has no teeth - he got Salmon Gums when he was a kid and they all fell out.”)

The Salmon Gums Hotel - centrally located in the CBD

Salmon Gums is a town with a population of about 40. Two of them live in, and run, the local pub and most of the rest of them seem to live in the caravan park which is thoughtfully located adjacent to the railway line used to carry iron ore from Norseman to Esperance in 160-wagon trains both day and night.   

Day 16

Sunday 13 May 2018

Salmon Gums to Lucky Bay via Esperance

Up betimes and astonishingly, NOT the last to leave.  

As a matter of fact the Prop believes that only us and the couple on the site next to us left Salmon Gums that day.  Everyone else stayed!  

Still as the couple next door left before we did and no-one else left after us, I guess it could be said that we were, in fact, again, the last to leave!

Salmon Gums Community Caravan Park

Just like the Hotel California, you can check out any time you like...

Prior to departure Mrs P was presented by the management with a little posy of chrysanthemum and mint for Mother’s Day.  A delghtful but perhaps risky gesture made on the (happily correct) assumption that Mrs P was indeed a mother.  

Arrived in the very pleasant town of Esperance about mid-morning.

Mrs P visited the local Turkish bakery to buy some bread only to discover that no bread was baked there on the weekend but that, on the bright side, kebabs were freely available 7 days a week!

Esperance: No bread, pleasant but hopeless

Visited the excellent Esperance “black water” dump site and…well…dumped some “black water” and then, on the recommendation of Mrs P’s matron of honour, made our way to “Lucky Bay” in the Cape Le Grande National Park about 50 klms east of Esperance.

Perfick!!

Lucky Bay - very nice indeed!

Decided one day was not enough so we booked in for two.

A very pleasant 26 degrees and a beautiful beach with crystal clear water, so we decided to take a dip in the Southern Ocean.  

Never let it be said that Tasmania has the coldest seawater in Australia.  In the Prop’s admittedly limited experience only the frigid waters of Noriel Park at Albury in NSW which are drawn from the very bottom of the Hume Weir, can compare to the temperature of the water at Lucky Bay.  In fact, the Prop would go so fas as to say that the water at Lucky Bay was even colder that that sauv blanc the Prop was served at the Caiguna Roadhouse two nights before.

Recent arrivals at Lucky Bay seen here protesting about the water temperature

NB: Some readers may think that “Lucky Bay” is so called as a result of a “naming-rights” sponsorship deal between WA Inc and the proprietors of the Tasmanian outdoor and sporting goods stores “Allgoods”.  This is not so. In fact Lucky Bay was so named by Matthew Flinders who, in 1802 anchored here during his circumnavigation of the continent.  

Maybe the water wasn’t so cold then?

          

Day 17
Monday 14 May 2018
Lucky Bay

Up betimes to watch others departing… because we weren’t going anywhere!

Decided to take the “easy walking” track from Lucky Bay to Thistle Cove.

Thistle

Thistle Cove

Not a thistle

A New Holland Honyeater - facing extinction on account of WA quarantine regulations (see Day 13 above) 

Now the word “easy” is a relative term. 

What was “easy” when the Prop was 20 years old may not necessarily be “easy” in more recent times.  And so it was with the the Lucky Bay to Thistle Cove track.  Like the curate’s egg, it was easy in parts.

The Curate's Egg - hard boiled

In other parts it was not easy but it was worthwhile.  Splendid scenery that is strikingly reminiscent of the Freycinet National Park in Tasmania. 

Cape Le Grande or Freycinet? Je ne sais qua!  

Talk about taking coals to Newcastle!

Enough cliches for one day!