April 29 2023 - Albury to Cootamundra

Up betimes to visit the historic Albury Railway Station. When constructed in the late 19th century, the 455 metre long platform was then the longest in Australia and was necessary to accommodate trains from both the colonies of New South Wales and Victoria which were of differing gauges. 

The Tadpole (L) parked at the Albury Railway Station. Road meets rail!

The 455 metre long platform at Albury

Thence to Monument Hill, a war memorial which in 1975 gave a tremendous view of the whole of Albury. Alas, in the last 50 years Albury has grown much larger as have the eucalyptus trees on Monument Hill which now serve to block the panorama which lies below.

Next, we sallied forth to our intended destination, Cootamundra. However rather than taking the Hume Freeway, we charted a less direct route via what one might call the "back passage" to a small town called Burrumbuttock - located not very far from Urana!

Burrumbuttocks - located side by side - like Albury and Wodonga!

Burrumbuttock General Store - a very cheeky little establishment

Burrumbuttock Public Hall - behind the times?

Then to Walla Walla (so good they named it twice) for morning tea - a cappuccino and a huge Anzac biscuit. 

Inspected the local art scene, including the impressive water tower "mural" and pre- Federation architecture...and the butcher's shop.

Walla Walla Water Tower Art Mural ((WWWTAM)) - doesn't make sense)

Walla Walla pre- Federation Bank - both a bank and residence

Walla Walla Butchery - where the steaks are much too high!

Most surprising of all was Mackie Bros' "Walla Walla Emporium" at which establishment the proprietors proudly boast that they are the "Universal Providers" of "everything"!!

Mackie Bros Emporium - the home of everything!

Passed through Wagga Wagga (so good they named it twice) and, at length, arrived in "Coota" to stay at the Cootamundra Showgrounds Campground. Powered sites for $20 per night - a genuine bargain of the kind not even Mackie Bros' of Walla Walla could hope to match!

The Tadpole at rest in the dying rays of the sun, at Cootamundra.

28 April 2023 - Albury

Up betimes to undertake a sentimental journey through Mrs P's childhood - and, to seek out MAMA.

As a general observation, it would be fair to say that there have been a few changes in Albury since the 1950's. 

The Prop first visited Albury in 1975, at which time the intersection on which the Post Office stood was the only one controlled by traffic lights and the main highway between Sydney and Melbourne still ran through the middle of town.

Nevertheless, we were able to locate Mrs P's childhood home, the location of which must remain secret out of respect for the current owners who might otherwise be inundated by paparazzi. 

Having said that, Mrs P was not impressed by the somewhat unkempt appearance of the former family seat. The current owners are either too busy to attend to a bit of home maintenance OR are committed environmentalists unwilling to cut, prune or mow plants of any description.

The family seat of Mrs P as at 2014 (or one very much like it) - before falling into disrepair

Next, a visit to the final resting places of some close relatives and time for reflection on the meaning of life.

The autumn of life?

Then came a leisurely stroll through town to appreciate the pre-Federation architecture including the notable and substantial Albury Post Office - an undoubted symbol of the unbridled optimism of the early inhabitants.

Such optimism was not without a very good foundation. Albury was, in the 1890's, almost certain to become the national capital of the new Australian federation. However, on the day the "selection committee", made up of politicians, came to Bungambrawatha (the original and Aboriginal name of Albury) a giant dust storm engulfed the town, thus dashing all hopes of the locals! 

The Albury Post Office - a portent of things to come?

Next, and almost by accident, the Prop found his MAMA!

MAMA - apparently, for the artist, there are no easy answers

It is pretty clear that there is a thriving and vibrant arts community in Albury where stylish, even outlandish, post-Federation architecture seems to have found a home.

 An example of stylish and outlandish post-Federation Albury architecture - or is it an advertisement for beer?

Although ostensibly a friendly and welcoming place, there is some evidence that lasting and meaningful friendships may be hard to make in Albury. A large sign opposite the Post Office proclaims "Mates Limited"

Albury - apparenty a difficult place to make friends since 1850

Rather more sedate post-Federation architecture. How the mighty have fallen! Temperance & General Insurance (T&G) and Australian Mutual Provident Society (AMP) are no longer what they once were.

Just off the main street (Dean St) there was a café where, in 1991, the Prop consumed  an "Orange Lazarus" - a frozen concoction which instantaneously led to a form of "brain freeze",  a transient but extremely painful condition affecting the nose and cerebellum in particular. It therefore came as no surprise to the Prop that that establishment has now gone out of business.

(For more information about the "Orange Lazarus" see: 

https://twitter.com/tharook/status/1642143778248052737)

The café which formerly sold the popular but painful Orange Lazarus

A close-up photograph of an Orange Lazarus (or one very much like it). ( I know, it looks like a Brown Lazarus, but I couldn't find an Orange one!)

Finally, and mysteriously, whilst searching for the ladies' hair salon formerly  frequented by Mrs P's late mother (the business was owned and operated by one Lola Wigg) the Prop found instead, a "small bar" which is, paradoxically, operated by "Temperance & General Albury Pty Ltd" (T&G?). 

Possibly Australia's  only Temperance Bar

Although unable to find Lola Wigg, we did stumble upon a gentlemens' hairdresser where only strong men go in the deep hours to have their hairs shortened - the "Dude Hut". On reflection, the Dude Hut may well be part of the thriving and vibrant Albury arts community.

The Dude Hut - where stylish dudes go to get half cut

27 April 2023 - Shepparton to Albury

Up betimes to make our way to the Shepparton Preserving Company Pty Ltd. (SPC) which company now, in fact, trades under the name SPC. 

The SPC factory is located at Ardmona - under which name SPC also carries on business. Confusing isn't it?

More here:

https://spchistory.wordpress.com/the-history-of-spc/

The SPC factory at Ardmona. Their trade secrets are apparently closely guarded - by high corrugated iron barriers.

Having decided to take the road less travelled (out of consideration for the Tadpole, whose cruising speed is a comfortable 90km/h - a speed which appears to infuriate most modern motorists) we departed Shepp and headed for Kattamatite.

(At this point, the Prop should make it clear that he had never previously heard of Kattamatite, which he naturally assumed was the name of some exotic mineral or of a minor sexual perversion. However, Mrs P, having grown up in the Albury region, assured the Prop that she knew of, but was not intimately familiar with, the many attractions of Kattamatite.)

Indeed, upon arrival at Kattamatite, the Prop was astonished to learn that this little township is (or maybe was, if he has  moved or is not still alive) home to Mr Glenn Crawford, winner of the Stawell Gift (Australia 's richest professional foot race)

Glenn Crawford, winner of the Stawell Gift nearly 30 years ago and apparently still living in Kattamatite. Is he resting on his laurels?

At the Kattamatite Lions Park the Prop was again astonished to find that Kattamatite lies at the very heart of something called the Broke and Boozy State Park. (I think I have spelt that correctly).

 The Broke and Boozy State Park - a real eye-opener!

.

But Kattamatite had saved its most interesting attraction until last!

Tucked away in the corner of the "Kattamatite Broke and Boozy Lions State Park" was a vintage vehicle older even than the mighty Tadpole - although the Prop feels obliged to mention that it is nowhere nearly as well-maintained as the Tadpole.

A vintage tractor at Kattamatite (possibly a "Fergie") pales in comparison to the Tadpole 

Thoroughly sated by the charms of Kattamatite, and by a nice cup of coffee, we sallied forth to Yarrawonga (Vic), Mulwala (NSW) then Rutherglen (Vic, again!). Being of a notoriously abstemious disposition, the Prop eschewed the tasting of any alcoholic beverages in the Rutherglen and otherwise did as he was told and headed straight for Albury hoping to put in a late appearance at MAMA (Murray Art Museum Albury). But alas, we must all wait until tomorrow...at the very least.

So, in summary, the JAPPA has so far included Ross, Devonport, Banjos (both the bakery and the poet) Geebung, Bacchus Marsh,  SAM, SPC, Broke & Boozy,Yarrawonga, Rutherglen and, very nearly, MAMA.

25 April 2023 -"Anzac Day"

Having rigorously tested the Porta Potti and made all necessary final arrangements, the Prop and Mrs P set off on the Journey Around Particular Parts of the Antipodes (JAPPOTA) but not before seeking and obtaining a farewell blessing from the Lord Cousland of Worley. 

Duly blessed and feeling very self-satisfied - if not beatified- the journey began.

First mandatory stop was at the Ross Bakery which was bathed in autumnal hues and serving excellent Cornish pasties and other sweetmeats.

The township of Ross - it's name means "horse" but no sign of meat substitution in the excellent Cornish pasties

Shortly after leaving Ross the Prop realised that he had failed to pack any long daks! Only shorts and a swimming costume. Concerned that he may be prevented from attending several potential formal engagements, on arrival in Devonport, the Prop sought out the well known high-class sartor, Herr Klaus Mart (more popularly known by the sobriquet "K-Mart") in order to obtain some bespoke pantaloons. 

Ended up with a cheap pair of elastic waisted navy blue trousers which may or may not pass muster. 

Thereafter we took light refreshment at "Banjos" in the Devonport Mall - one of the few businesses in Devonport open on Anzac Day (other than Herr Mart's Emporium)

Devonport Mall on Anzac Day. Not much hustle or bustle

A bank building at the Rooke Street end of the mall was closed for business but it appears that the signwriter inadvertently omitted the "n".

Devonport Bank building with slipshod signwriting.

Thence to board the Spirit of Tasmania II for the trip across the Bass Strait. From on board, Devonport looked like a picture.

Three pictures of Devonport looking like a picture

After that, nothing else interesting happened, so we went to bed.

ACROSS THE BASS STRAIT BY TADPOLE - A most gelatinous journey

The Prop (in his characteristically perfunctory manner) is back. Or, at any rate, seriously thinking about being back - back in the blogging caper, that is.

 

Unable to secure a booking on the Spirit of Tasmania until August, Mrs P suggested that we should ressurect our 1987 Hi-Ace Sunliner® campervan in order to undertake the planned tour of particular parts of the Antipodes.

Recently re-christened as "the Tadpole" (being the smaller, yet no less robust, brother of "the Cane Toad") the Tadpole was first purchased in 2003 in order to attend sundry fixtures forming part of the 2003 Rugby World Cup - Brisbane, Canberra, Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney (not to mention Bateau Bay - where no RWC fixture took place but which the Prop remembers very fondly). [It is a curious thing indeed that we use the phrase "not to mention" by way of introduction to actually mentioning the very thing that we claim not to be mentioning!]

"The Tadpole" in its prime - somewhere in northern NSW in 2003

Any reader who has not yet lost interest would, by now, likely be wondering why it is that the Prop still owns a 36 year old vehicle which has little or no claim to be  "classic" or even "vintage" but nevertheless, quite old.  

The Prop also wonders! But, there it is!

Perhaps the Prop is a "hoarder". (The Prop also owns a 1991 Nissan Patrol which took him and his family around Australia in 1993). 

        The legendary 1991 Nissan Patrol

Alternatively the Prop may be a vintage car enthusiast. More likely, however, the Prop has developed sentimental attachments to inanimate objects which he believes (rightly or wrongly) have served him well. (In 2014, the Prop was offered A$1,500 for the Nissan Patrol as a trade-in! It took all of the dignity that the Prop could muster to prevent the Prop from punching the offending used car salesman in the nasal region!)

But I digress.

The Tadpole sets sail from Devonport on Anzac Day (25 April). Meanwhile, the Prop and Mrs P have set about preparing their conveyance for the ordeal that lies ahead. The on-board 3 Way refrigerator, microwave, griller, television and water pump have all been tested and found to be operating satisfactorily. As yet, the Porta Potti has not been rigorously or fully tested.

What could possibly go wrong!

The Thetford Porta Potti 335 - yet to be fully tested!

ACROSS THE NULLARBOR BEATING CANE TOADS - "A Most Competitive Journey"

Day 33

Wednesday 30 May 2018

Denham to Wooramel Station

Up betimes to visit the well-appointed Denham Dump-Ezy.

Drove the Cane Toad over some questionable surfaces (which really tested the A frame) to Eagle Bluff Boardwalk in the expectation of viewing turtles, manta rays and sharks. Alas, we only saw some dolphins scaring a school of fish and a German tourist who claimed to have seen a turtle.

Next stop, the aptly-named Shell Beach which is made up entirely of the shells of fragum cockles. Far too many to count!

Thence to Hamelin Pool to view the stromatolites.

Keen readers of the blog will recall that the Prop and Mrs P had tremendous difficulty identifying stromatolites at Spear Creek (see Day 8)

Day 34

Thursday 31 May 2018

Wooramel Station to Coral Bay

Day 35
Friday 1 June 2018
Coral Bay




Day 36
Saturday 2 June 2018
Coral Bay to Exmouth




Day 37
Sunday 3 June 2018
Exmouth to Robe River




Day 38
Monday 4 June 2018
Robe River to Dampier





Day 39
Tuesday 5 June 2018
Dampier to Port Hedland





Day 40
Wednesday 6 June 2018
Port Hedland to Stanley Rest Area





Day 41
Thursday 7 June 2018
Stanley Rest Area to Broome





Day 42
Friday 8 June 2018
Broome



Day 43
Saturday 9 June 2018
Broome




Day 44
Sunday 10 June 2018
Broome




Day 45
Monday 11 June 2018
Broome




Day 46
Tuesday 12 June 2018
Broome




Day 47
Wednesday 13 June 2018
Broome to ...

ACROSS THE NULLARBOR BAITING CANE TOAD - A Most Intoxicating Journey

Day 29

Saturday 26 May 2018

Cliff Head to Northampton

Up betimes having endured another, less inclement night although a generous dinner of bacon and baked beans the night before did nothing to ease the turbulence in and around the Cane Toad!

We were the last of five free campers to depart Cliff Head but the Cane Toad's A-Frame seems to be holding up.

Made our way to Dongara (say Dong-a-ruh) and stumbled on what may be the best equipped Dump-Ezy this side of Port Augusta.  This splendid appliance not only features a snug-fitting and easily lifted lid and fully adjustable water hose, it also has a dedicated hand-basin, night light and a roof.  It is also enclosed on three sides making it both private and weatherproof!  This "Dongara DeLuxe Dump-Ezy" sets the standard to which all municipal dump points should now aspire. 4 1/2 Stars.

THE DONGARA DELUXE DUMP-EZY - SETTING THE STANDARD

But Dongara is not just a leader in the chemical toilet hygiene stakes, it also boasts "the Big Lobster" or, as the Prop prefers to call it,  "the Crayfish in a Boat" a startling piece of post-modernist abstract sculpture/installation.

However, being as fair as one possibly can, the lobster component - although considerably larger than life-size - is not especially "big".  And the "boat" component is no larger than a sabot dinghy.  All in all, "the Big Lobster" of Dongara pales by comparison with "The Big Crayfish" at Kingston S.E. in South Australia.

"THE BIG CRAYFISH" AT DONGARA - NOT VERY BIG AT  ALL!

THE BIG LOBSTER AT KINGSTON SE (SA) - SETTING THE STANDARD FOR "BIG" CRUSTECEANS

In the Prop's humble opinion, the burghers of Dongara would be better off spruiking the considerable attractions of their magnificent DeLuxe Dump-Ezy rather than wasting any more precious PR dollars on the (purported) "Big Crayfish".

Left Dongara with mixed feelings but an empty chemical toilet and headed for Geraldton.

Parked in the newly-provided caravan parking/camping area in the centre of town and, knowing no better, we decided to take the self-guided "West End Walk" which turned out to be immensely uninteresting but mercifully short.

I suppose that if you have an interest in grain silo construction or fish markets, you may find one or two sites which grab your attention.  In saying this, the Prop does not overlook the newly-reconstructed grandstand at the Geraldton Oval (home of the Mighty Blues - the Geraldton Railway Football Club) named in memory of Colin "Scruffy" Burgess.

On the other hand, it too could be easily overlooked without regret.

THE COLIN BURGESS "SCRUFFY" GRANDSTAND.  BUILT OF STEEL AND CONCRETE BUT MADE TO LOOK LIKE THE TIMBER ORIGINAL

THE RON MORGAN PAVILION

SPIRITUAL HOME OF "THE MIGHTY BLUES" - THE GERALDTON RAILWAY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL CLUB

Left Geraldton heading nowhere in particular and eventually stopped just north of Northampton at "Northbrook Home Stay" - a form of caravan park in a paddock on a farm, the second most notable feature of which is its complete lack of any level ground.  Not for the fist time, the Prop spent the night wondering whether the Cane Toad might not fall off the edge of the planet (See Day 12).

The most notable feature of Northbrook Home Stay was that it appears to be the current home of Dr Who and that Dr Who can't spell "Tardis".

Alternatively, the occupant of the "Tardus" is an imposter.

Alternatively "Tardus" is some sort of pun that continues to be far too cryptic for the Prop to decode.

               

 

Day 30

Sunday 27 May 2018

Northampton to Kalbarri

Up betimes and got away before Dr Who (Who had in fact left in his Land Rover leaving his "Tardus" and trailer behind.  It seems that he may be residing at Northbrook Home Stay.  If that is correct then the Prop thinks that this was a technical win at the very least since we left before he had "completely"left).

Made a last minute decision to make a detour to Kalbarri and were very glad we did. There is simply no comparison to be made between the delights of the Kalbarri National Park and Geraldton's West End Walk (See Day 29)

NATURE'S WINDOW, KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK  

AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE OF A BIG ROCK WITH A HOLE IN IT.

THE HAWK'S HEAD, KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK

AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE OF A ROCK WITHOUT A HOLE IN IT.

KALBARRI GORGE, KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK

AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE OF A ROCK WITH A RIVER RUNNING THROUGH IT.

The A- Frame on the Cane Toad is holding up pretty well.

Day 31
Monday 28 May 2018
Kalbarri to Denham

Up betimes and headed in the direction of Monkey Mia.

Having discovered that the only caravan park at Monkey Mia is closed for redevelopment we navigated to Denham (about 25 klms from Monkey Mia) and arrived at the "Blue Dolphin Caravan Park."

Had a ceremonial beer at the most westerly pub in Australia.

SHARK BAY HOTEL 

NO MORE BEER UNTIL MADAGASGAR FOR THOSE HEADING WEST!

Day 32Tuesday 29 May 2018Denham to Monkey Mia to Denham

Up betimes to travel 25 kilometres to Monkey Mia hopeful of being able to participate in one of the two or three "dolphin interactions"which usually take place each day. (The A-Frame on the Cane Toad is still making funny noises bu is otherwise OK.)

Controversy rages about how Monkey Mia got its name. See here. 

On arrival the Prop was not surprised to find that, just like nearly everybody else, dolphins get up and going much earlier than the Prop does.  It was barely 9.30 and a big board announced that already two "interactions" had occurred today.  However, all was not lost.  Based on events of previous days it appeared that if there was to be a third interaction today then it would happen by 11.00 am at the latest.

Then, at 9.55 am, just as the Prop and Mrs P sat down to a nice freshly-made cappuccino coffee, dolphins began appearing in the water about 15 metres away.  First one, then two more then three until there were at least six or seven interactive dolphins who swam around aimlessly but close by for about 20 minutes while a human-dolphin interactor told the assembled crowd of about 60 onlookers how to interact with dolphins properly. No approaching, swimming with, feeding or even touching the dolphins - not even with a fully informed consent (#MeToo\Dolphins).

TWO DOLPHINS AND A SKILLED DOLPHIN INTERACTOR AT MONKEY MIA

A VERY ATTRACTIVE FEMALE DOLPHIN SEEKING TO INTERACT WITH THE PROP!  LOOK BUT DO NOT TOUCH!

At the end of the interaction lecture each of the dolphins lined up in the water next to a volunteer who was holding a bucket with that particular dolphin's name on it (Can they read?) and selected visitors were invited to interact with them by hand feeding them a small fish.  Two or three fish later, all the dolphins were gone - just as quickly as they had appeared.

So that's what a dolphin interaction is!

Meanwhile, the pelicans, who were obviously crying out for a bit of interaction -  were largely ignored!

    PELICANS, DESPERATE FOR MORE INTERACTION AT MONKEY MIA